PORTUGAL & SPAIN

DECEMBER 27, 2019 - JANUARY 10, 2020

As mentioned regarding other trips, Jack and I get out of dodge at the end of every year. After a particularly gnarly New Year’s Eve nine years ago (blizzard, bad sushi and home asleep before 11PM in front of a rerun of Kids in the Hall), we both decided rather than coordinating party-hopping to parties we don’t really want to go to, or staying home and feeling like losers, we could just leave the country entirely. Paris, Edinburgh, Tokyo, India, Vietnam, New Zealand, Africa, China - we’ve been everywhere, man. And sometimes we are at a big party (one of the biggest fireworks display on the planet at Hogmanay in Edinburgh) or we are asleep before midnight (a very chilly night with full bellies of Peking duck in Beijing) but the exploration makes ringing in the near year very special, and travel provides us with opportunity for unique reflection. 

Our past few years have been truly spectacular, but also exhausting. Africa was a long journey to even see our first giraffe, China we were on the move every few days to do our best to get from north to south. So, for our 2019 into 2020 trip, we wanted something “easy.” We had both been back to Europe for other trips, but hadn’t been there for our New Year trip since 2013. We also both really like olives and wine, so Portugal and Spain seemed like a perfect destination. What we found was a wonderful (and indeed, easy) trip filled with art, hiking and fine dining.

PRACTICALITIES

First things first: reset your inner clocks. Don’t forget that - especially in Spain - daily siestas are a thing. Every day, most noticeably in Barcelona, shops close and folks kick back for a break from about 3:30pm to as late as 7pm. If you are planning to window shop or grab an early dinner, recalculate. Some stores, especially bigger brand stores, if you are into that, stay open, but all the independent vendors tend to lean in to siesta. Also, get used to later dinner. Most restaurants open back up around 7:30pm, with things really kicking into high gear around 9pm. It’s romantic to be just digging into your main course around 10pm, but takes some getting used to.

Don’t forget to pack the right shoes. I mean, ALWAYS do that, but especially for this trip. Lisbon is very walkable, but most of the streets are cobblestone, and I nearly ruined my Chelsea boots because I kept catching my toe on the stones. Sneakers are less COOL but certainly more practical. I saw a woman in three inch platform heels trying to navigate the street outside the Castelo de São Jorge in Lisbon and she looked miserable. 

Be adventurous, and try the fish, but also eat what you want. I’m not a seafood fan. I love fish, but I’m not into bivalves. This is okay! Don’t choke down a big pile of squid because you don’t want to miss out (even though you know you hate squid - hello this is me). There is SO much wonderful food, so while I encourage you to try everything and be adventurous (please, please do not go to McDonalds ever when you are traveling) I also say don’t eat something you aren’t going to like having in your mouth. It’s your mouth. Speaking of food - prepare for pintxos (pronounced “peen-chose” - the Portuguese version of tapas) and tapas! Best in Lisbon was fishy pintxos and cheesy pintxos. Best in Spain was tomato bread and patatas bravas. I ate an olive almost every day on this trip. The food is good, eat all of it. 

GO THERE, DO THAT - PORTUGAL

I should note that we barely explored Portugal, so if you are here for heavy Portugal tips, I’m sorry that there isn’t much here beyond my advice to go to Portugal and do more than we did! We spent just over two days in Lisbon. 

1. Come hungry and dine at Tapisco, Cantinho de Avillez and Landeau Chocolate (for the cake). 
Our entire trip across both countries was marked by excellent food (salty, chewy, spicy, surprising) and we had some of our best bites in Lisbon. Most of these places take, and I recommend, making reservations. Tapisco was just down the street from our bed and breakfast, and we got very lucky (we stopped in somewhat early with no reservation and they were able to sneak us in to the bar seating - which we prefer!). The menu is filled with fresh fish and delicate pastas. We got the salted cod and washed it down with champagne, not too shabby. Better yet was the meal at Cantinho de Avillez (where we DID have a reservation, but showed up on the wrong night! They took pity on us and gave us a table, if we promised to be out within 90 minutes - no problemo). Jack and I shared a perfectly cooked pork chop served with thinly cut french fries and black beans. The combo was perfection. For desert, we had the “life changing” Nutella dish. As we ordered it, the very cute waiter (every waiter in Portugal is very cute) said “We will have to take your picture before you eat it, because of the life changing.” Don’t forget to make time to get a slice of the most perfect chocolate cake on the planet, at Landeau Chocolate. That’s pretty much all they serve to eat (you can buy a whole cake and we almost did, so we could eat on it for the rest of the trip) alongside coffee and wine. We shared a slice, but get your own if you anticipate fighting over the last bite. 

2. Ride Tram 28 to The Castelo de São Jorge, and maybe hack the line. 
Tram 28 is a pretty famous line that runs through Lisbon, and we hopped on very near the Modern Art Museum. It was PACKED so I didn’t get the romantic tram ride I hoped for, but still was able to peek out of the windows and see the city moving slowly by (it is a tram, after all). We took it up a steep hill to the Castelo de São Jorge. Winding up the cobblestone hills around the castle, we encountered a long, slow line (this is when I turn to Jack and say “We should have gotten tickets online before” and he says “Not helpful, Rebecca.”). I queued up and Jack went to scout out the front of line to see if it was worth us waiting. Five minutes later he reappeared and pulled me out of the line - he had not-so-sneakily bypassed the line entirely, popping into the ticket office and getting ours in a flash. I don’t encourage queue jumping or not following the rules in foreign countries, but we had about 100 disinterested French teenagers in front of us and the entrance, and I was thrilled to bypass all of them and save ourselves an hour. It was worth it - the castle offers some of the best views of the city, and it is always fun to explore the labyrinth of an old castle. Make sure to spend time on the grounds around the castle, checking out the nearly 360 view and people watching (and look up - there are peacocks in the trees!). There was a little wine cart on one side of the castle, and we got a bag of crisps and two glasses of rose which we enjoyed as we plotted our next move. 

3. Wander through LX Factory.
Located in an old weaving and textile factory, LX factory is a collection of restaurants, shops and graffiti painted walls. Similar to Fábrica de Arte Cubano or 798 Art Zone in China, LX Factory is a hip place where hip people (and hip tourists) hang out. We found our way there (it is tricky, and you do NOT need to, nor can you, enter through the side where the Village Underground is, though that is a cool assemblage of structures made out of old shipping containers) and then bummed around, popping in the shops, stopping for lunch and a game of gin and snapping cool photos. We particularly liked the bookstore Ler Devagar. Most of the books were in Spanish but floor to ceiling, wall to wall books are cool no matter what language they are in. 

4. Check out the exhibit at Modern Art Museum.
This is a small museum that has ever changing exhibits and is housed in an old convent. Very manageable and perfect for a rainy day and an introduction to contemporary Portuguese artists alongside more recognizable names. 

5. Get a drink and play some cards at Pavilhão Chinês.
After being at this bar, I felt like every other bar I’d ever been to was really asleep at the wheel. This place is nuts, decorated wall to wall with war trinkets, artwork, memorabilia and countless soldier action figures. On the speakers the night we were there was some of the best tunes (Springsteen, Dire Straits, Elton John, etc) and the drinks are legit - I had a glass of Lisbon’s signature liqueur, Ginjinha (cherry and sweet - for sipping!). It is important to note that the closer you look at the decor you begin to see some problematic items (we spied a few blackface dolls and some figurines of women that were less than flattering), but the kitsch is worth seeing. Smoking is allowed in the back room that houses a few pool tables, and even though you’ll want to take a million photos - trust us, none of it translates to Instagram, you just have to experience it for yourself. 

6. Get some sardines at Mundo Fantástico das Conservas Portuguesa.
You’ll see these sardine shops all over the place, and they make perfect gifts. The shops like small amusement parks, and you can grab tins from years dating back as early as the 1910s. I hate sardines, but I thought this place was charming. 

7. If you are a cinephile, stop by the Cinemateca.
I mean, this place may not interest you if you aren’t into cinema exhibition and cool film spaces, but maybe it will! The neon signs outside, including the big “Cinema” sign are worth the price of admission (free) to check out their collection of old projectors and film printers, all of which I found fascinating. We didn’t have time to see a film (while we were there they were doing a retrospective of Hong Sang-soo’s work, alongside a screening of The Three Amigos), but we did sit in the cozy bar and play another game of gin. The bar was filled with locals and a lot of students, and I imagined myself spending many hours there if I lived in Lisbon. 

8. Head to Belem for monks and pastry.
Belem is a neighborhood in Lisbon that is know for a big ass monetary and small ass pastry - experience both! You can take a bus right into the heart of Belem, dropping you off next to the monastery. Hop off and go in the opposite direction first to get Belem’s famous custard tart at Pastéis de Belém. The shop is easy to spot, with a long line (pro tip, there are TWO lines!). The service is fast, and things move quickly. We got two tarts to go, though you can get them in orders of six or more, and to stay if you’d like. The tarts are WAY better than I expected - soft, warm and best with a sprinkle of sugar and cinnamon (they provide packets), I could have easily eaten six of them, or at least my half of six. Head back toward the Jerónimos Monastery and explore inside if it is open. It wasn’t when we were there, so we walked around it and took in the majesty from outside - probably enough depending on how much you are hoping to explore the architecture and history of the space. Don’t leave Belem without visiting the Tower of Belem, which provides you with a pleasant stroll along the water.

GO THERE, DO THAT - BASQUE COUNTRY 

At our wedding, our good friend Seth read one of our favorite poems, Frank O’Hara’s Having A Coke With You. In it, Frank speaks of the towns in Spain’s Basque country: San Sebastián, Irún, Hendaye, Biarritz, Bayonne. As we debated where to travel once we headed into Spain, we were called to this northern section of the country by Frank’s words, the possibility of hiking and the guarantee that we’d get some Basque cake (one of our favorite treats). We flew from Lisbon (after a ten hour delay in the Lisbon airport - thanks a lot, TAP Portugal airline) to Bilbao, and from there got a rental car, exploring Hondarribia, San Sebastian and the Pyrenees before driving on to Barcelona. We were in beautiful beach country in decidedly not beach season, but the area was still stunningly beautiful and worth our leisurely tour.

1. In Bilbao, spend nearly a day at the Guggenheim. We absolutely loved the Guggenheim (we’re real Gugg-fans, so not a surprise). From Jeff Koons’s Puppy outside, to the immersive The Matter of Time by Richard Serra, this is one of the top sights in the country (and the primary reason to go to Bilbao). We listened a bit to the provided audio guide as we walked through the very manageable museum (we prefer a smaller museum), but eventually we put them away and enjoyed experiencing the pieces on our own. Consider purchasing tickets online in advance, the queue wasn’t too long when we arrived, but it occasionally snakes all the way up the stairs you take down into the entrance. Don’t forget to step outside to see the various statues that dot the small moat outside the museum - my absolute favorite was Fujiko Nakaya’s Fog sculpture #08025 (F.O.G.), which occurs intermittently.

2. Get olives, see a movie and walk around. We had a car in Bilbao but tried not to drive it around much, as Bilbao is a very walkable city (and parking is a son of a bitch). We wandered to Plaza Nueva for people watching and pintxos eating (olives, olives, olives), then to Mercado de la Ribera (more olives) and Cines Golem Alhóndiga for a film (please note the week we were there, everything they were showing was dubbed in Spanish. We chose to see Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker, which we had already seen in English and was actually even better in Spanish - which we do not understand). We stayed in a lovely Airbnb which we highly recommend - our hosts were helpful and the place was in a perfect location for all that walking and olives, and gorgeous.

3. Go to Bar El Globo for pintxos before you leave Bilbao. There are SO many place for pintxos. Toss a pintxos and you’ll hit a great place for pintxos, so you really can’t go wrong, though El Globo was especially wonderful, not only for its wide selection, but also for the feeling that real Bilboans frequent there, and for the kindness of the wait service (they were so nice to me as I struggled through my order). The day we were there we specifically enjoyed the crab and cheese (their house specialty), the little sausages, and the onion and brie. Best part about pintxos is that you can drop in and get three, then move on to another site or another pintxos bar.

4. Travel on to Hondarribia and put on your hiking boots. We are hikers, believe it or not, and trips we’ve taken in the last few years that haven’t included some version of hiking have left us feeling like something was missing. To walk on one of the most famous trails in the world - the Camino de Santiago - was a real draw. We chose to take on the first leg of the journey, which begins out of a small town near San Sebastián, called Hondarribia. We stayed in a lovely little Airbnb right on the Plaza de Arma, and drove about ten minutes to the start of the trail. The trail is marked by a yellow dash, and trust us: follow the dash. There are a few moments when we went off the trail and were nearly bushwhacking. At the start of the trail there are two options: a easier path that goes to the left, or a more challenging path that goes up and to the right. Take the more challenging path - it is a real corker at the start but quickly evens out and you will be rewarded with fantastic views the entire journey. We saw sheep, horses and pups on long walks with their owners. As with any hike, rely on layers (in January it was pretty chilly, so I had a thermal, a button down and a shell with hat/mittens that came on/off) and good hiking boots. We packed some light snacks and filled our second water bottle with wine…because wine/Spain/vacation. We got to the end of our leg and then grabbed a taxi near the train station and had him take us back to our car. Sort of unconventional, but it worked out easily. We then went out into the main street of Hondarribia for pintxos - there are about a dozen spots clustered together, making Hondarribia the easiest and best spot to pintxos hop.

5. Visit the jewel of Basque country - San Sebastián. San Sebastián felt like the center of the Basque country - we saw the most tourists and could feel that tourism air there; the place feels like it is built for lazy days on the beach and boozy nights in the Old Town. San Sebastián was just about 25 minutes from our stay in Hondarrabia, and we were pretty happy we didn’t stay in actual San Sebastián - prices seemed a little higher and the vibe was less sleepy (we like sleepy). We did spend a whole, cloudy day in San Sebastián, visiting the Aquarium, riding the Funicular Monte Igueldo up to catch the breathtaking views of La Concha Bay, and going to one of the best restaurants in the world, Arzak. This is a very expensive meal, and you have to reserve literally months (sometimes a year) in advance, so we got very lucky when we made reservations in the summer before our trip. Jack and I used to be way more into the fancy tasting, coursed menus, but fell off that habit (good thing - it is $$$) awhile ago. But, when you are within driving distance of one of the most famed and fine dining experiences, and if you have the means, you gotta go. Our meal was spectacular - attentive but not pushy service; delicious, inventive food; gorgeous wines (Jack got a little over-served). If you can, go.

6. Head to the Pyrenees and Hotel Barosse, dipping into France for just a minute. We drove on to Hotel Barosse, just south of the French border and near the not really worth mentioning town of Jaca (we didn’t spend time there). We took the long way around, driving into France just for fun, marveling at the mountains around us and how quickly the signs changed from Spanish to French and back again - also we came across a dope old train station that was perfect for getting spooked and taking some photos (scroll down!). Hotel Barosse was our stay for a little hiking in the Pyrenees and some relaxation. It is a wonderful bed and breakfast (and dinner!), run by José and Gustavo. They have only a few rooms that are all well appointed, a hot tub and dry sauna, and offer full breakfast (including the best fresh squeezed orange juice we’ve ever had in our lives) and dinner in, if you choose. It was quiet and peaceful, and a perfect launching point for numerous hiking options. We drove a little out of our way to Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park and explored the numerous waterfalls and moderate hikes there. This was definitely less challenging than our Camino hike, but with slightly chillier weather and our determination to “relax” we welcomed it. We left Barosse and headed on to Barcelona for the final leg of our trip.

GO THERE, DO THAT - BARCELONA

This was my second trip to Barcelona, having been there nearly a decade ago (well before this blog) with my mom. Jack and I were just falling for each other while I was on that trip, so it was a blast to return with him by my side. Things had changed and were also how I remembered them, with Barcelona proving to still be a place for excellent culture, food, style and tricky to navigate corridors and streets.

1. Food food foooooood! Some of our best eating on this trip was in Barcelona, and even in the most assuming places! First, go to Bar Cañete for a quick bite - sit at the bar and get the burrata, the spicy meatball, and anything else that suits your fancy. Get cozy at La Alcoba Azul restaurant for some of the best tapas in Barcelona, where you’ll dine with an international, hip crowd (that you will be part of by simply dining there). Get the goat cheese, the tomato bread and a big pitcher of sangria. Dine at Cal Pep - show up no later than 8pm so you can get a spot (and ideally eat at the bar). There is no menu, just tell them what you don’t like to eat/any allergies and they will bring you perfectly made food until you say no more. We had white fish, fried artichokes, and a fluffy cheese omelet. 

2. Obviously go to La Sagrada Familia. I mean you gotta go! If you don’t, why are you in Barcelona? I don’t even LIKE Gaudí that much, but we beelined there upon arrival. The building, which looks like its own little city that has sprung from the earth, is still under construction, due to be done by 2026 (fat chance - I give it until 2030 at the earliest) and that is part of the mystery and intrigue - there are men hanging from scaffolding and cranes surrounding the structure. Get a ticket in online in advance (your hotel can help you if requested) to save yourself a queue and/or being disappointed - thousands of tourists visit La Sagrada each day. The ticket includes an audio tour, which I usually dislike but found helpful, as it takes you through the history of the building and continued work. What is fascinating is that so many different sculptors have contributed to the in progress landmark, so there is a weird, very planned but very hodgepodge feeling. The west side of the building doesn’t seem to match the east, the inside is like a study in contrasts. There is a real beauty to the interior (which wasn’t done when I was there a decade ago), which is indeed breathtaking, especially the stained glass window which creates a constantly changing color palette as the sun orbits throughout the day. I always love visiting big tourist sites like this because it gives you the opportunity to come together with people from all around the world, sharing an experience. I stared up at the breathtaking ceiling next to an Indian family and two Chinese students, an Italian man talking VERY loudly to his wife, and small children running around the intricately decorated floor. 

3. Stay at Hotel Wittmore. Or Hotel Neri. Or both! Barcelona was our final destination, and we had chosen the classy Hotel Neri for our stay (back in 2010 my mom and I had drinks and lunch in the famously tragic courtyard behind Neri’s entrance). Upon our arrival, the staff at Neri let us know they had just been granted a permit to replace their air conditioner, and they’d need to move us to their sister hotel, the Wittmore. Funnily, Jack and I had considered Wittmore and Neri, so we were totally okay with a mid-trip swap. We stayed at Neri for a night (lovely) and then moved to Wittmore. The staff was so incredibly generous and friendly to us - we were one of just a few guests in an otherwise quiet time of year, and because of the hotel swap, they went above and beyond to treat us like royalty. Room upgrades, a bottle of cava waiting for us in our room, complimentary breakfast. We actually liked Wittmore more than Neri - it is decorated with dark plaids with a hipster aesthetic, and we were super into it, as Barcelona’s sunny days gave way to chilly nights and we found Wittmore to be super cozy. Great breakfast, comfortable lounge and service that is to be commended. Neri was equally lovely, with a brighter, more classic boutique hotel vibe. Whatever your preferred flavor, either will suit you fine, and both are located perfectly for sightseeing. 

4. Our final day was a rainy one, so we went to the Picasso museum (pro tip - get your tickets in advance online!). Neither of us are so gaga over Picasso to put this high on our list, but we really enjoyed taking a deep dive into the artist, and the museum boasts something 3,500 pieces (not all on display), including some of Picasso’s earliest work of portraits made when he was a teenager. It is easy to spend as little or as much time in the museum as you like, and ends with a huge gift shop for you to snag some postcards or gifts to take home. 

5. Stroll La Rambla, and then move on. La Rambla is like walking through Times Square or visiting the Magnificent Mile - you sort of need to do it to fulfill your trip. Jack and I went to La Rambla immediately upon arriving in Barcelona, and it is a fun, quick stroll (all the restaurants and souvenir stalls essentially sell the same wares) along a famous street. Just off La Rambla is the great Mercado de La Boqueria. This is also now pretty touristy (you’ll see locals bypassing the touristy chocolate stands and market perimeter for the actual vendors with fish and meats). There is much more interesting shopping in Barcelona, and I recommend the La Ribera neighborhood for independently owned shops, including leather workers, shoemakers, fine clothes and really great little stalls with lots on offer. 

6. Check out the exhibit at MACBA. Located in the heart of the University of Barcelona, and surrounded by students and dudes skateboarding (the smell of weed was strong as we approached), MACBA is a great museum to visit - not too huge, but full of substantial exhibits and pieces. The exhibits rotate, but there seems to always be good stuff there. The building itself is also lovely, like a sharper squished version of the Guggenheim in New York. Start at the top and then work your way down. 

7. See another movie! We really love seeing movies, so on our final night in Barcelona was saw 1917 at the Phenomena theater, a single screen (with amazing picture and sound). They only do a few shows a day, so prepare to stand outside in a queue while you wait for you film to begin. The popcorn isn’t very good, but the regulars are all Barcelonians and the screen, picture and sound were likely the best I’ve ever seen in all our travels. The cinema has a great lobby with old school posters and advertisements for their curated series and repertory titles.